Fourth Recess Lake from Mono Pass Backpacking 2022 - Always Go into the Lake

Fourth Recess Lake
Nights on Trail: 2
Mileage: ~16
Trailhead: Little Lakes and Mono Pass Trailhead (Mosquito Flats)
Agency: Inyo National Forest
Dates hiked: August 12-14, 2022

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It was the middle of July 2022. I had been recovering from my 100-mile backpacking trip on the Arctic Circle Trail. My jet lag had gone away, but my ankle was still sore from a good strain and walking on it for 50 miles. I had also finally gotten COVID and was still recovering.

I got this text from my close friend Jason, who I’ve been on many adventures with, (including the Wonderland Trail and the Teton Crest Trail):

“If you get better soon enough, do you want to sneak up to the Sierra early August?”

Of course seeing the Sierra Nevada again before the summer ended was very tempting. As well as seeing my friend again. I was worried about my ankle and my lack of conditioning, so we decided to not make it too challenging and reduce the number of miles needed to get to our destination.

We looked at trailheads on the eastern side of the Sierra, aiming for somewhere neither of us had been.

“If you feel up to it, we can go over mono to 4th Recess Lake”

I scanned the map, as Pioneer Basin was on my list and Fourth Recess Lake was nearby. The mileage was a little longer than I had hoped, 6.5 miles per Jason’s old guidebook, with about 2,000 feet of gain each way, but it looked to be a beautiful destination.

We snagged the permits two weeks before our date and were ready to go.

08/12/2022
Since Jason comes from the LA area and I was coming from San Diego, we agreed to meet up in Ontario, where we also had a nice breakfast while catching up.

We headed up the 395, a trip we’ve both made many times. I had picked up some submarine sandwiches from Board and Brew for bringing with us into the backcountry.

We stopped again later for lunch before we headed up to the trailhead, taking our time so we wouldn’t be hiking in so much heat.

Mosquito Flats is a very popular trailhead, with easy access to Little Lakes Valley. I had been there twice in 2021 and knew our hike was going to be beautiful. Since we arrived so late in the day, we easily found a spot and shouldered our packs, ready to be on the trail.

We walked along Rock Creek, passing many day hikers on the way down and several backpackers ending their trips. We made a right toward Mono Pass and Ruby Lake and started climbing in earnest.

I hadn’t been on a single hike since my backpacking trip to the Arctic Circle Trail, so I was feeling the effort. I am sure COVID had left my lungs working hard. I felt good, though, and we simply took it slowly.

The view down into Little Lakes Valley was incredible, and before long, we reached the Ruby Lake outlet Creek. We settled into the granite boulders in the shade and enjoyed an extended snack and we refilled our waters.

I was tired. COVID had taken its toll on my lungs.

My spirits were up and my body felt good, it’s just that I could tell my conditioning wasn’t where it usually is. My left ankle was aching a little bit, which was interesting because it was my right ankle that had been injured. As a result, I hiked carefully and deliberately.

After a long time relaxing in the shade of the large trees, we continued upward, rising above the trees.

Mono Pass Trail above Ruby Lake, Mount Morgan on the left

We met a couple from Alpine, a town in San Diego, and chatted with them about burgers and beer before we continued up. Mono Pass dipped down to meet us between the large granite peaks towering above. It didn’t look like the climb would be too challenging and we were almost there.

Shortly, we were at the top of the pass. Small patches of snow remained in the shadows as we descended the gradual sandy slope on the other side.

We made it to Summit Lake, which was a brilliant blue and green, much prettier in person than other pictures and descriptions led me to believe. We sat again on some rocks and had some snacks. It felt good to be done with the majority of the climbing of the day.

Of course one always feels that way before you have to drop for thousands of feet for miles to come. If the way was 6.5 miles, then we should be well over half way to Fourth Recess Lake.

After our relaxing rest, which I could really get used to, we traversed down the rest of the long pass on a loose rocky slope.

A look down to Pioneer Basin across the valley

The view down the Mono Creek drainage was breathtaking, as was the view to the upper Pioneer Basin Lakes beyond. I could see Mount Baldwin, which rose prominently from my campsite on my backpacking trip to Mildred Lake last summer. We could also see smoke from a distant wildfire.

The trail briefly climbed again and I was reminded of my lack of conditioning. I had to stop a few times on the way up. The elevation of over 12,000’ also contributed to my fatigue, I am sure.

We continued down past the very scenic Trail Lakes, and had another break near the outlet creek there. I ate half of my submarine sandwich and immediately felt better.

Upper Trail Lake with Mono Pass Peak above

I was tired, both ankles were very sore, and I was having trouble keeping up with Jason. The day was getting late, and, checking the map, I knew we still had a long way to go. We continued down and down the rocky trail, which only put more pressure on my ankles.

Jason vanished out of sight as I stopped to message my wife via GPS that we’d be getting into camp later than anticipated. I had arrived late one evening on my Domelands backpacking trip and we agreed I would message her at around 6PM every day, regardless if I was in camp yet or not.

I continued carefully and steeply down, avoiding rolling my ankles on the many lemon-sized rocks that covered the trail. Jason waited for me at the crossing of Golden Creek, where we met a solo hiker who was also considering making it to Fourth Recess Lake for the evening.

After climbing gently for a little while from the crossing, which was a relief from miles of steep downhill, the trail descended back toward Golden Creek, where we crossed again. There were people camping there and we waved as we passed by on the nearly flat trail. The gentle rockless trail was a nice change from what we had been descending for the past couple of hours.

We emerged to the outlet creek of Fourth Recess Lake with the headwall of the canyon split by a 750’ tall waterfall. It was amazing, but the night was fading and we had to find a campsite and get settled. We could hear some groups on the eastern side of the lake and chose the western side, passing one quiet site that had tents in it.

We found a grassy spot just above the lake. It wasn’t as flat as we had hoped, but it was gorgeous and comfortable. We had a wonderful view of the lake. A few mosquitos came by to say hello, more than I had been led to believe, but it wasn’t a bother.

We got some water by the edge of the lake and settled in for dinner. After taking a few shots of the lake, it was dark and time to settle in for a good night’s sleep.

The next morning we woke up with no plans. We had considered hiking up to the Snow Lakes, but we opted to relax by the lake. We had breakfast and I decided to lounge for a bit, resting my tired ankles, while Jason explored the other side of the lake. I relaxed on a log that jutted into the lake, in the warm morning sun, and took my time filling up my 6L bladder to supply us with water for the remainder of the day. The morning was still and the water was like glass. I was looking forward to a swim later in the day.

I soaked in the idea of just being there.

Getting water from the lake in the morning looking south

Getting water from the lake in the morning looking north

Jason standing on a boulder across the lake

Jason came back and we continued to relax in the shade. Though it was a little chilly in the shade, it was fairly warm in the sun. It was one of those slow mornings in the mountains that you can savor.

After a while, Jason took a nap while I explored our side of the lake. My ankles were a little tender, but the night of sleep definitely helped. I came back and we decided to go over to the other side of the lake.

We encountered another group taking a campsite nearby and said hello. We walked over to the far side of the lake and noticed it was a bit warmer on that side. We encountered a gentleman from Haiti with a strong French accent who was on a fast-paced trip and was about to skinny dip into the lake.

We made it back to our side of the lake and it was downright cold. The wind had picked up and it was hard to imagine swimming at this temperature. The other side of the lake was far warmer, so I seized the opportunity and hiked back over to the other side of the lake and found a great spot for a swim.

The view from my swimming beach (Click to enlarge)

Swimming in a High Sierra lake always takes my breath away and this was no different. Once the water gets to my ribs, I have to take a break and regain the air in my lungs. I plunged in and swam out to the deep waters.

I could feel my skin tingling from the cold, but it was great. I floated on my back and enjoyed my time in the water.

Although I wanted to stay in the lake longer, possibly swimming all the way to the other side, the day was ending and the wind was increasing, and I knew it wasn’t safe to be in too long.

I swam back to the shore and dried off with my camp towel, enjoying the sun. My skin was pink from the cold, but I was completely refreshed and energized. It is always worth it.

ALWAYS GO IN THE LAKE.

I walked past the other group on my way back to my campsite and they invited us over to share some whiskey. I changed my clothes at my campsite and Jason got his delicious chocolate out and we returned to the edge of the lake, where we enjoyed some time with the other group, sipping whiskey and eating chocolate.

“Is this your first backpacking trip?” one of the other backpackers asked me.

I shook my head and said, “No. This is my seventh… THIS YEAR.”

We all laughed and shared our many adventures and favorite restaurants, since we were all generally from SoCal.

I always get a kick out of when people ask Jason if he’s ever hiked the John Muir Trail. If I can time it right, I can usually butt in with, “He’s not only hiked it, he single-handedly ruined it.”

Of course, I am referring to the wonderful film Mile… Mile & a Half, which I’ve seen many times, before I even met Jason.

My daughter and I used to watch it on plane rides on my iPad when she was younger. It’s a great view into the JMT and really was the precursor to the influx of fine trail films since then. Engagement in the JMT definitely increased after the film was released, hence the “ruined” joke.

It’s always great to meet someone on the trail who has seen it, and often Jason is recognized on our adventures. It’s great fun.

It started to get cold, especially with my damp underwear from swimming, so we decided to go to our respective sites and have dinner.

Once again, the mosquitoes came out to remind us they were still there, even this late in the season. We strolled around the lake and got some photos of the alpenglow, but then it was time to head to our tents.

I slept really well.

We woke up earlier in the morning to avoid crossing the treeless Mono Pass in the direct sun. We also had a long drive home.

Mono Creek Valley from the trail (Click to enlarge)

We packed up and made our way back to Golden Creek in the morning shade. I felt better. Perhaps my ankles had healed, or perhaps I acclimated after spending two nights at 10,000’. Also, ankles usually feet better going uphill.

Either way, we made great time climbing back up to our pleasant resting spot by the Trail Lakes outlet stream. We continued to climb and climb, once again, enjoying the view of the mountains around us.

The Silver Divide from near Mono Pass (Click to enlarge)

Jason at work photographing the beauty around us

We made excellent time and got a good rhythm. Unless one of us is having an off day, or there’s a Raiders game imminent, Jason and I usually hike at roughly the same pace.

We saw a marmot as we hiked the last bit to Summit Lake. We started to see quite a few backpackers and day hikers on their way up. We dropped down the other side of Mono Pass, with a little climb on the way down and made great time down past Ruby Lake and the Little Lakes Valley.

We rested again at the outlet creek of Ruby Lake until the group from the night before caught up to us, taking our spot on the boulder as we gathered our things. We headed down and down back to the car, re-entering the flurry of activity that is Mosquito Flats.

Jason and I have gone on so many adventures together, we are a well-oiled machine, quickly changing out of our trail clothes into clean driving clothes, and getting our packs into the car. We headed down the mountain, back to the valley, where we had lunch and drove home.

The route felt more than 6.5 miles, so I checked the mileage on my phone. It was closer to 8 miles one way than the 6.5 listed in the guidebook. Not sure what has changed over the years.

It was another successful exploration into a new section in the Sierra with a cherished friend. Excellent idea, Jason.