Cottonwood Lake Basin 2022 - Two Wonderful Nights in the Sierra
Cottonwood Lakes Basin
Nights out: 2
Mileage: ~18
Trailhead: Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead
Agency: Inyo National Forest
Dates Hiked: June 13-15, 2022
For those interested, here is a list of my gear that I have found works well for me. This is, of course, an affiliate link and your enjoyment of these may vary:
06/13/2022
Sometimes you need to get away. Sometimes you need to train. Sometimes you’ve been waiting for summer to arrive so you can pack up your things and go visit the Sierra.
Also, my wife and daughter planned a nice getaway for themselves, so I had an opportunity to escape to the mountains.
Two weeks before the date, I logged onto Recreation.gov and grabbed a walk-in permit and I was set to go.
It was a Monday when I set off at about noon, stopping by my sister-in-law’s house to check for a travel pillow she thought may have dropped off her suitcase onto the sidewalk. I didn’t find it, so I headed up the road toward Lone Pine, having lunch along the way.
After a fuel break, I headed up to Horseshoe Meadow toward the trailhead.
It’s a familiar place, Horseshoe Meadow. I’ve started several trips and spent some nights there:
Long Lake, 2019 (post-backpacking night)
Miter Basin, 2023 (Since then)
Now I was starting my eighth trip from there. I parked in one of the spots, and started to change from my shorts into my pants, when I realized that I had left my pants at home. It was still early in the season, so the nights were going to get chilly.
I dug into my pack and got out my merino base layer leggings. These would have to do. I put them on under my shorts. An interesting look for me, but not completely unusual for thru-hikers.
After I changed, an older gentleman strolled by to chat. He was wearing cutoff jean shorts and a battered white t-shirt with the sleeves cut off.
He had hiked all over the Sierra for decades and was heading in the next morning. He wanted to chat indefinitely, and, after a few minutes while I was getting ready, I let him know that I was heading on the trail momentarily and was racing daylight.
Heading up the Cottonwood Lakes Trail
The high winds that were forecast were not blowing at all, even though the valley below was buffeted by strong gusts.
Entering the John Muir Wilderness
It was around 6PM when I bid farewell, locked my car, hoisted my pack, and headed into the forest. The Cottonwood Lakes Trail is like an old friend. You gently climb for a bit before the trail drops down to a crossing and then the trail gently climbs until you near the edge of the basin, then it climbs steeply to the rim, regardless of which direction you go.
I saw some day hikers on their way down, several surprised that I was just starting my day so late. But I was comfortable on the trail and had my headlamp handy, just in case I wasn’t able to make it to my destination before night set in, but dusk seems to last forever in the Sierra, so I wasn’t worried.
Crossing South Fork Cottonwood Creek
Crossing Cottonwood Creek, with stylish shorts over base layer combo
After I turned left at the junction toward New Army Pass, I saw two Mule Deer on the trail ahead of me. They turned and calmly walked off up the hillside. I had seen them at nearly the same spot years ago.
Whenever I stopped, the mosquitoes would find me. They weren’t too bad, but enough that I wanted to keep going. I was getting near Cottonwood Basin and was getting excited.
A couple of mule deer near the rim of Cottonwood Lakes Basin
One moment, you’re in a forest, and the next you’re emerging from a steep trail into a wide open basin, with granite peaks towering over meadows with lakes in the middle. It’s always a welcome sight.
At the rim of Cottonwood Lakes Basin at dusk
At this point, I wasn’t sure exactly where I was going to sleep for the night, but I was aiming for the area between Cottonwood Lake #1 and Cottonwood Lake #2. I remember exploring a bit with my daughter on our trip to the area last year and knew it was going to be a wonderful place to hang out.
I crossed the southern edge of the first lake and encountered a father and son backpacking for the first time. They had camped very close to the trail and appeared to be in the middle of trying to solve a problem.
I said hello and they asked what they should do with food that didn’t fit in their bear canister. I said everything should be in the canister, but in a pinch, to put it in a sack and hoist it high into a tree, on an overhanging branch. They had also forgotten their tent fly at home, but they weren’t worried, as they had warm sleeping bags.
I also gently let them know that they should be camping farther away from the trail than they were, but if they were leaving early, it shouldn’t be a problem. I told them I was headed for the trees beyond and they were more than welcome to find a spot up there. They opted to stay where they were.
The sun was definitely falling when I crossed the meadow and made it into the trees above Cottonwood Lake #2. I found a nice flat spot and rapidly set my tent up before I needed a head lamp.
It was about 8:30PM. It had taken me about 2.5 hours to hike about 5.3 miles. I felt good and strong. I was happy to be here. I didn’t have any real agenda. I might attempt Mount Langley the next day, or I might stroll around the lakes. It just depended on what I felt like at the moment.
I had dinner on a large boulder away from camp at around 9:15PM, in the light of the nearly-full moon. I could hear the wonderful sound of the creek that connected Cottonwood Lake #3 and #2 nearby and filtered water from it.
Moonlight over Cottonwood Lake #2
I had had a long day and the temperature was dropping. I was happy and content and retired to my warm tent and sleeping bag and slept wonderfully.
The next morning, I lounged in the tent, waiting for the sun to rise. When it got near, I poked my head out and saw the beautiful Cottonwood Lake #2 nearby.
Cottonwood Lake #2 from my tent
I slowly got up, strolling around the water’s edge and had breakfast on the same boulder as the night before. It was a pleasant, quiet morning and I had the lake all to myself.
I took my time, contemplating on how I was going to spend my day. At around 10:30 AM, I decided to go up New Army Pass and see how I felt about a Mount Langley attempt. I had gotten close to the top of Mount Langley in 2018, so it was on my mind.
Cottonwood Lake #2 Pano (Click to enlarge)
I headed up the trail past Long Lake, finding a group of scouts heading up to the top of the pass, as well as a family with some young children and dogs doing the same thing.
Hiking up past Long Lake
Hiking up past High Lake
I felt OK, but could definitely feel the elevation, as I ascended from 11,000’ to over 12,000’. I took my time, eating some snacks, and then I got my rhythm, making it to the top and enjoying the views to Mount Langley, as well as the views of Cottonwood Basin.
The sandy switchbacks to New Army Pass
A little bit of snow near the top of New Army Pass
The wind was gusting at the top, so I descended, wanting to take a peak at Old Army Pass, which I had heard still had some dangerous snow on it. Someone had perished in icy conditions the month before.
The sketchy snow near the top of Old Army Pass
Looking down to Cottonwood Lake #4 from Old Army Pass
As I descended, the wind got stronger, nearly blowing me off my feet. I decided that I would stop for lunch and see how I felt. I perched myself on a comfortable rock overlooking Cottonwood Lake #4 at the top of Old Army Pass and enjoyed a relaxing meal somewhat out of the wind.
I also decided I didn’t want to go anywhere near the large snow patches on the way down Old Army Pass on the way back, so I would have to climb back up to New Army Pass on the way back to my tent, over 400’ of gain.
The long ramp to Mount Langley from New Army Pass
I started up the Mount Langley Trail and was immediately staggering in the gusty wind. I looked at the talus slog that led up to the summit and decided to call it a day.
Mount Langley, which was at best a stretch goal for this trip, would have to wait another day. I was heading to backpack the Arctic Circle Trail in a week, so I didn’t want to risk any injury before then.
I met a couple of men who had just reached the summit and they said the wind was getting worse as they descended. I let them know there was a use trail leading back to the New Army Pass Trail, so they didn’t have to add mileage onto an already long day.
The view down into Cottonwood Lakes Basin from New Army Pass
I led them up to the trail and bid them adieu as I decided to linger at the top of New Army Pass, near a patch of snow that overlooked the Cottonwood Basin below. I drank some water and had a snack before I started the switchbacks back down to High Lake, where I would eventually see a large group of about two dozen people taking turns swimming in the lake and howling at its frigidity.
At this point, I met the old-timer from the day before, who was almost nearing his destination for the evening at High Lake. I let him know there was a huge group there. As his face dropped, I let him know they looked like day hikers and were already drying off. They might be gone shortly. He continued upward, in vintage backpacking gear with no hat or sunglasses, his weathered skin in high contrast to his white cutoff t-shirt.
I continued downward past Long Lake, where the family with the dogs had settled in for another evening.
I made it through the boulders and along Cottonwood Lake #2 and back to my tent. I was happy with my hike up to New Army Pass and was determined to relax for the remainder of the day.
I stretched out on a large boulder next to the lake and took out a large can of beer that I had sunk into the creek and sipped it for an hour or so as the wind kicked up and whipped through the basin. I double-checked my tent and it was holding up.
My tent in the wind
I just sat there on the rock, in the fading sun, enjoying being there. I could see some people backpacking up to Long Lake, and others on their way down.
The light was shimmering on the rippling lake. A couple crossed the meadow and I waved. They were wondering if there was any place to put their tent sheltered in the trees, and I said there was plenty of room and water was right there at the creek. We chatted a little bit and they set up their tent and had dinner.
Marmot, king of the hill
I found a flat spot in the grass sheltered by a large boulder and had my dinner, still sipping on my large beer. The wind kept the mosquitoes at bay. When the wind would die down, there would be clouds of mosquitoes above me.
I spent about 3 hours just relaxing and enjoying the lake and watching the marmots. It was wonderful. Eventually, the sun dipped down behind the large granite cliffs that loomed above Cottonwood Lake #2 and the temperature plummeted.
Dusk Pano of Cottonwood Lake #2
Time to head back into the tent for the evening. I again was comfortable and content.
The next morning, I had breakfast, packed up, and headed down the trail, this time taking the South Fork Cottonwood Creek Trail, my preferred exit path from Cottonwood Lakes Basin.
Outlet stream from the South Fork Lakes
I’ve used this trail twice before and it never disappoints. I hiked along the edge of Cottonwood Lake #1 and climbed up a hill to a saddle. After a wonderful view of Cirque Peak, the other side dropped down into the South Fork drainage. The first part of the trail was pretty steep as the South Fork cascaded down next to me, but then the trail flattened out for miles, which was a great way to stretch my legs as I passed a large meadow on the right.
Large meadow along South Fork Cottonwood Creek Trail (Click to enlarge)
Meadow crossing along the South Fork Cottonwood Creek Trail (Click to enlarge)
I then dropped through a forest, crossed a meadow, and passed an old cabin before I connected to the Cottonwood Lakes Trail. I was able to chat with a few people along the way, each with their own version of adventure just beginning.
It’s then a matter of climbing back up a hill before the trail drops back to the trailhead. I was back at my car at 10AM.
It was only two nights, but spending a couple of nights in the Cottonwood Lakes Basin was a great way to start the summer.
