Humphreys Basin Backpacking 2024 - Reunion and rescue
Humphreys Basin
Elevation: 11,200’
Nights on Trail: 4
Miles: ~25
Trailhead: North Lake Campground
Agency: Inyo National Forest
Dates Hiked: September 7 to 10, 2024
The stage was set. This year’s trip into the Sierra Nevada was to reunite the two men featured in the lovely documentary Noatak: Return to the Arctic, with the creators of the documentary, many of the folks who joined us for our trek last year into Miter Basin. The two men are Tip and Jim.
Tip is a pioneer in nuclear medicine and Jim is an emeritus philosophy professor. Together they have traveled for an equivalent of two years on Arctic rivers. They are both in their eighties. This may be their last trip together above the tree line.
Adam, Jim, and Tip on their way
With several crew members as porters and the rest traveling to meet from all over California we chose Humphreys Basin as our base camp.
09/07/2024
The PD, Sophia, and I headed out from San Diego, making the usual drive up the 395, stopping at the usual places. We made it to North Lake as the sun became shrouded with clouds. Large drops fell on us as we gathered our backpacks, but never amounted to anything more than that.
By the time we hiked up the dirt road to the campground and trailhead, the sun was shining.
Me, The PD, and Sophia on our way from the North Lake-Piute Pass Trailhead
It was great to be back on the trail in the Sierra Nevada. Some of our friends had arrived a couple of days ago and we were eager to see them.
The lovely shaded lower part of the Piute Pass Trail
The trail started through the aspens, hiking along and crossing North Fork Bishop Creek. It was nice to be on a trail I’ve never been on. I hadn’t backpacked with the PD in a few years, so this was also special.
Looking back down the North Fork Bishop Creek drainage
The trail sometimes wandered high above the valley floor onto red granite that is often seen in this part of the Sierra.
As the day progressed, we passed the large Loch Leven and Piute Lake, taking a break at a small green tarn between the two.
A lovely green tarn below Mount Thoreau, where we had a snack and a rest
As we continued to climb, the sun dropped, and we could see the snow research hut on the southeastern shore of Puite Lake.
Sophia along one of the many unnamed lakes on the way to Piute Pass
The PD climbing the trail above Piute Lake
We reached the upper end of the canyon and in good spirits, began the final climb to Puite Pass. At 11,417, it is one of the many passes on the eastern side of the Sierra that spans the crest into the interior basins.
Sophia at the final climb to Piute Pass
Resting at the top of Piute Pass
We took a brief break, since we were racing daylight and made our way over some hills to Muriel Lake. We had an idea where the group might be camped, but weren’t 100% sure.
Summit Lake in Humphreys Basin, below Piute Pass
The last rise before Muriel Lake in Humphreys Basin
I encountered Dreamer, one of my close backpacking friends and we shared a hug and some serious news.
Alpenglow on Mount Humphreys from our campsite
Jim had, moments before, fallen off an outcrop while telling a story and injured himself. He was being evaluated and moved to his tent. He was OK, but it was, at the time, unclear what his injuries were. Jim was adamant that he would be able to hike back down the mountain in a few days.
It is amazing how overwhelmed I was. After driving hours on the highway and hours on the trail, I was suddenly in the middle of several friends, old and new. After setting up our tents, I attempted to make dinner by headlamp. It was cold and I was tired and my answers were short.
After getting dinner out of the way, I was able to relax with the group and watch the stars next to our granite slab next to the lake. Not long after, it was time for bed. We secured our food in our Ursacks and called it an evening.
09/08/2024
We woke up at a leisurely time. We were base-camped and had no plans other than we were going to explore the basin.
Muriel Lake from our dining rock (Click to enlarge)
Sophia was tired and so was I. The group planned a long hike, aiming for some lakes at the northwest side of the basin. I wasn’t sure if I was up for it just yet. Our campsite rested at over 11,000’ and I did not feel acclimated yet. I wasn’t sure what my plan was, but I wanted to hang out in camp for a while.
Our campsite in Humphreys Basin
Napping above Muriel Lake in Humphreys Basin
The PD and Sophia hung out at the lake while I strolled around a little bit. Sophia napped off and on. I sat with Tip and Jim, getting to know Jim.
Muriel Lake
Jim proved to be as gracious and pleasant as I had predicted. We spent a few hours visiting, as he lay in his tent, nursing his injuries. Tip and I relaxed against the adjacent granite outcrops.
At about 3PM, I decided I had enough energy to explore. I was going to aim for Goethe Lakes.
Kit is ready for a hike
Passing PB and Kit on their way back to camp, I crossed the outlet creek of Murel Lake and made my way slowly off-trail to the ridge nearby. I didn’t have a timeline, so these strolls are of a different flavor.
Muriel Lake outlet stream over Humphreys Basin
I stop. I look. I listen. I take my time and absorb the place. It reminds me of my time in Miter Basin last year.
It’s a lovely way to experience the mountains.
I strolled to the top of the ridge and looked down onto the unnamed lake below. The clouds put on a spectacular show and the wind gusted from the west. I sat down on a granite slab and watched the wind create patterns on the surface of the lake.
An unnamed lake in Humphreys Basin
Strolling upward, I followed the ridge high, finding a ledge here and there, traversing small patches of snow. Making my way down to lower Goethe Lake, I spied a large rabbit in the grass, reminding me of the one Sophia and I saw dropping down to Rock Creek during our 2020 Mount Whitney attempt.
Goethe Lakes from the ridge (Click to enlarge)
After it scampered away, I made my way to the valley floor and approached lower Goethe Lake. The wind was now whipping from the south. I noted a small campsite behind an outcrop. You never know when you’ll revisit somewhere.
I found a large boulder and sat behind it, sheltering me from the strong gusts. On these solo explorations, I tend to get contemplative, and find joy in silence and just being there. The only sounds were the wind, and the water lapping on the shore of the lake.
My resting spot at Lower Goethe Lake
I ate a snack and had some water. I love these little corners of the world.
Looking back to Goethe Cirque
Ready to explore more, I hiked on a trail that led north out of the basin. From my vantage, I could see Muriel Lake and our campsite with numerous tents. I dropped down to a knoll and looked over to the southwestern side of the lake. Everything was spectacular.
Our campsite at Muriel Lake
I kept hearing some noises so I looked around. I couldn’t tell where it was coming from, as it seemed to bounce all over the rocks around me. I finally found a couple of ptarmigans near my feet. They didn’t seem afraid of me, so I sat down and watched them for a while.
Staying low, I made my way across some slabs along the lake and saw a pika run away and turn around to stare at me. I also noted a lovely campsite on the edge of the lake. It was just big enough for a single tent.
Our group relaxing after their hike
I could see the rest of the group had returned from their hike and were already starting to make dinner. I found Sophia and we all got together for a wonderful group dinner, all 14 of us.
The PD and I enjoy dinner time. Photo Credit: Ric Serena
Jim and Tip enjoy dinner in Humphreys Basin. Photo Credit: Jen Serena
I stayed up late watching Jason take photos. It’s sort of a tradition.
Jason takes night photos
09/09/2024
As everyone was now acclimated, we decided to go on an off-trail excursion into Humphreys Basin. We headed back up toward Piute Pass and crossed the northern side, each picking our own path through the grass and granite.
The group heading out for a day of exploration of Humphreys Basin. Photo credit: Ric Serena
I enjoy the view of Piute Lake from above Piute Pass. Photo Credit: Ric Serena
Heading cross-country across Humphreys Basin
The day was breezy, as every day had been. I took a line to the right, staying high on a ridge with ledges. Most of the group went together, chatting like the old friends they are. Sophia chatted with various people along the way. It fills me with joy to see her interact with such strong mentors. I couldn’t ask for better role models.
Upper Humphreys Basin (Click to enlarge)
Upper Humphreys Lake
We passed numerous hidden tarns and topped a ridge, looking down onto Upper Humphreys Lake. We chatted at the top, enjoying the view, and made our way down to the waters edge.
Contemplating our path down to the lake. Photo: Pablo
We spread out, taking off our packs. Two people went swimming, two people went fishing, and Sophia and I sliced summer sausage and cheese, placing them on crackers, which we distributed to the group. Durand added two delicious apples to the charcuterie.
We laughed and shared stories in this heavenly setting. We relaxed on the grass for over an hour and a half. We didn’t want to leave, but we eventually continued along the basin, finding our own routes and being presented again and again with spectacular scenery.
The group moves along to the next lake
The northwestern edge of Upper Humphreys Lake
Middle Humphreys Lake
Lower Humphreys Lake
Lovely cross-country travel past Forsaken Lake to Desolation Lake
We stopped again at Desolation Lake and enjoyed a break on its windy shores. It is one of the largest lakes I’ve seen in the Sierra Nevada.
Sophia fishing at Desolation Lake
Pablo dropping down to Lower Desolation Lake
We made it back to camp, crossing Piute Creek on the way back up steeply to Muriel Lake. We got washed up and congregated in the junipers for an outstanding dinner. I shared my wine and cookies, and others shared their drinks. Pablo and the PD cooked up the fish they caught and shared it with everyone.
Trout for dinner
Me and Sophia. Photo Credit: Ric Serena
During our meal, I cheered Jason, as he was the glue that connected all 14 of us. From my daughter at age 16, to Jim, in his 80’s, we all knew each other because Jason is great at making friends and bringing us together.
It was a joyous evening in the high country.
09/10/2024
It was time for us to get off the mountain and get Sophia back to school, so we packed up, had a leisurely breakfast. Once again the conversation was wonderful.
Muriel Lake, glassy for breakfast. (Click to enlarge)
As we were packing up, Jim decided that he was going to need help getting off the mountain, so the Garmin InReach was used to summon help.
Adam pressed the SOS button
We started descending, knowing he was in great hands.
Sophia getting a last look at Muriel Lake
We all assumed it would be hours, if it was even today, before help would arrive. But Adam had hit the help button on the device at 09:08AM. A helicopter appeared over Humphreys Basin at 9:54AM, after only 46 minutes since hitting the button.
Less than an hour after pressing SOS, a helicopter has landed. Jim is on his way.
Photo: Ric Serena
They scrambled to get Jim ready for the ride and, before they knew it, he was gone in the helicopter to Mammoth.
As we were dropping back down to the trailhead, we saw the helicopter above us, heading down the North Fork Bishop Creek drainage, and knew Jim was on his way to recovery.
The PD, dropping quickly back to the car
Sophia dropped much more quickly than us, with enough time to swim in Piute Lake. She was just emerging as I came around a large outcrop. She was refreshed and I was a proud dad.
We made it back down to the trailhead and immediately ate acai bowls and street tacos. Sophia drove the lion’s share of the drive back to San Diego. Things are changing quickly around here.
It was another great trip with friends and family.
Our large Murial Lake Group
Only a year later, as I write this post, Jim is already walking unassisted and appears as strong as ever, even though he ended up with two torn tendons in his legs.
I am so happy he was able to get up into the high country again, and spend so much time with his dear friend Tip.
I am also happy that we were able to get so many people up at 11,000’ all at the same time. From my daughter, my brother the PD, a musician, filmmakers, and dear friends, we all share a common love for the outdoors.
