The Grand Sawtooth Loop 2025 - Backpacking for the first time in Idaho
The Grand Sawtooth Loop
Nights out: 5 (7 overall)
Mileage: ~70
Trailhead: Grandjean Campground Trailhead
Agency: Boise National Forest
Dates Hiked: August 2-9, 2025
For those interested, here is a list of my gear that I have found works well for me. This is, of course, an affiliate link and your enjoyment of these may vary:
Background
After our thru-hike of the Teton Crest Trail in 2021, our friend group, which we named the Trail Hobos, was sitting in a rental home.
Freshly showered and fed, we were watching some outdoor videos on YouTube and came across one about the Grand Sawtooth Loop.
We had all heard of the Sawtooth Wilderness and were curious about it. “We should do that someday.”
Four years later, we were able to make it happen.
08/02/2025
Sophia and I arrived in Boise and rented a car. We had lunch and picked up some last-minute supplies and headed out of town into the scenic rolling hills to the northeast. It was a pleasant drive, following the Payette River, watching the many people riding the rapids.
We arrived at the town of Lowman and got settled into our rental. The rest of the Hobos arrived later from Bend, driving over 7 hours.
With many hugs and smiles, we were all reunited, with one newer member (for Soph and me). The group in total was me, Soph, Adam (Dreamer), Jason Fitzpatrick, Jeff Hester, and Ben.
Having dinner at the Sourdough Lodge
We got settled in, visiting in the quiet, comfortable rental until it was dinner time. We drove across the street and had dinner at the Sourdough Lodge. Tasty burgers, sandwiches, and salads awaited us, as our last fresh meal for 6 days.
We packed up our bags and settled in for the evening, excited for the big day tomorrow.
Day 1 - 08/03/2025 - Grandjean Trailhead to Little Sawtooth Lake - 9.8 Miles - ~4,000’ of gain
We started off in the cool of the morning, getting parking spots near the start of the trail. Dreamer signed the permit and we were almost immediately hiking uphill at 9:15AM.
Ready to go at the Grandjean Trailhead
The rest of the group was pretty fast out of the gate, but I knew today would be a long day of climbing so I settled into my slow-and-steady pace. My speed worked out well as we ascended through the Trail Creek drainage. Sophia hiked strong and fast with the lead group.
Hiking upward along the Trail Creek Trail
We could immediately see evidence of the Wapiti Fire, which burnt over 129,063 acres just over a year ago. We would be hiking through burnt areas on 3 out of 6 days on this trek.
One benefit from wildfires are the many wildflowers that spring up afterwards. The forest floor was covered with green grasses and many colorful flowers, as we crossed and recrossed Trail Creek.
Cascades along Trail Creek
I maintained my slow and steady pace until I encountered Jason, who had perhaps started too fast out of the gate. I hiked with him for a while and took a nice break. Adam strolled up behind us and was amazed that we had both missed him, sitting hidden off the trail.
He rested with us for a while and then started again, intending to catch up with the rest of the group to let them know we’d be slow and steady for the remainder of the day. We still had thousands of feet to climb before we’d be done.
I kept my InReach on so that we could communicate if need be. But we decided that we would meet at Sawtooth Lake and decide from there where we would stay for the night.
Jason climbing higher among the burnt trees toward Sawtooth Lake Pass
After the break, with plenty of water and snacks, the next section was faster, as we continued to rise above the creek. Without shade from the dead trees, the sun beat down upon us. We took some breaks near water until we climbed up a small pass.
The trail dropped down to a boggy area, only to climb up and up toward what we called Sawtooth Lake Pass.
I sent a message, “We just reached the final lake before the pass. Almost there.” The reply, “Hanging out, (all 4 of us) on pass.” As the wind picked up, we passed the last of the McGown Lakes and started switching back and forth up to the pass.
Great, we were almost there. After ~4 hours of strenuous hiking, separated from the group, we had reached the high point of the day.
The group resting at the top of the pass
The view of Sawtooth Lake from the pass (Click to enlarge)
Jason and I sat with the rest of the group and looked at the view below. Sawtooth Lake is objectively a beautiful lake. The view from the pass was outstanding. We were all a little tired, so we decided to drop to the lake to find a place to set up our 5 tents.
Dropping down to Sawtooth Lake
The gentle slow downward was a nice rest from our constant ascent and we found a lovely campsite on the northern end of Sawtooth Lake. It was on a large granite outcrop, similar to Overland Lake on the Ruby Crest Trail.
Overlooking Little Sawtooth Lake to the north, we immediately chose our tent sites and got busy.
We all have done this so many times before:
Set up our tents
Inflate our sleeping pads
Take out our sleeping bags
Get our clothes ready
Clean up
Get our kitchens ready
Before long, four of us were taking dips in the lake. There was only a few minutes of sun left, so we hurried. But it was refreshing.
As Jeff and I were about to get water to filter, one of his sandals slipped on the steep edge of the outcrop. He stumbled and appeared to vigorously stub his toe on the granite slab. He clutched it and shook it off. We dropped to the creek to get water.
We enjoyed our time making dinner on the granite, but were pretty tired. Jason shared his ritual chocolate, a tradition we all approve of. We were all in bed by around 9:30PM or so. Since we were so far north, it was still light out.
After 11PM, we all woke up to lightning, thunder, and pouring rain. It was an exciting show. At one point, Sophia poked me in the shoulder, “Dad, that one was close.”
“Naw, there were a few seconds between…” BOOM!
Thunder boomed above us at the same time a flash of lightning lit up our tent.
“OK, now THAT one was CLOSE!”
We all enjoyed the show until it simmered down at around 1AM. I was hoping the weather had gotten the rain out of its system.
Day 2 - 08/04/2025 - Little Sawtooth Lake to Middle Baron Lake - 15.1 Miles - ~3,000’ of gain
We had a friendly breakfast, packed up, and were on the trail at around 8:40PM. It’s not that bad, considering we were an hour ahead of our home time.
I felt good, I knew we’d be climbing less than the day before, and the first part of the day was downhill.
Good morning along the unnamed lake next to Sawtooth Lake
We immediately hiked along Sawtooth Lake. There’s something about mornings and lakes. There’s a stillness that rests in the basin and the mirror of the water’s surface reflects the morning light on the surrounding mountains. It’s stunning and would be a theme for the rest of the trip.
Jeff’s toe was bothering him, so he modified his pace as we made our way past a few more lakes, one of which was our goal from the night before. I wasn’t sure if there would have been a good campsite for all of our tents, but there were some great sites just below it, at the start of the North Fork Baron Creek.
The group in the morning along another unnamed lake next to Sawtooth Lake, Mount Regan to our right (Click to enlarge)
It was nice to be able to hike with Sophia, as these days, she is usually up at the front with Adam.
We dropped from alpine lakes into the forest and were in good spirits as we turned the corner and could see for miles in all directions and our descent began in earnest.
We side-hilled along the North Fork Baron Creek drainage, crossing creeks and small burn areas. It was hard to tell if this was part of the larger burn from the Wapiti Fire in 2024 or something else. [It was the Wapiti Fire in 2024]
Looking up the North Fork Baron Creek drainage
One of many creek crossings along the Grand Sawtooth Loop
Dropping down the North Fork Baron Creek drainage with a shoulder of Moolack Mountain to the left
After about four miles and 1,500’ of loss, we stopped at one of the many creeks that crossed the trail, sitting in the shade of lush foliage. We drank and snacked, ready for the remainder of the descent.
Taking a break next to a small creek and getting some shade
We crossed the North Fork with our shoes on and continued the descent, passing more and more burnt trees.
Continuing to drop down to Baron Creek
Hearing the rush of Baron Creek, we arrived at the junction with the Baron Creek Trail. Some folks were camped nearby as we settled into a space underneath the trees. We were about 7 miles into the day, having dropped about 3,200’.
On other trips, this may have been a full day, with us dropping our packs and settling in for the night, but this was just the first half of the day. It was 12:30PM and it was time for lunch.
We hadn’t even started to climb the nearly 3,000’ feet of gain that was ahead of us. We had some food, water, rest, and good company before we started up the valley. It was immediately hot and dusty, as we entered a badly burned area. The 2024 fire had swept through here, as well.
Now on the way up the Baron Creek drainage toward Baron Creek Falls
There’s something about exhaustion that lets emotions in. I remembered on the 1984 Mount Whitney trip, there was a long day of hiking. It was day four of my first backpacking trip in the Sierra Nevada. There had been multiple days of big elevation gain. I was 12 years old and tired. Perhaps not eating and drinking enough. I remembered being so exhausted after climbing Colby Pass in the rain that emotions welled up in me. The despair of being so tired made me long for home.
This happened again. A week and a half prior to this trip, my father passed away. It wasn’t a surprise, and our relationship was complicated, but grief comes in many flavors. I was coping with the grief in my own way. But this exhaustion removed any protective shields from my emotions and the grief flooded in.
I was overwhelmed and tired. Tired of the dusty, ashy trail, the dead brown trees, the weather that blasted the sun like a furnace one moment, and the cold wind that blasted me when the sun hid behind the clouds, once I was covered in sweat, giving me chills.
It takes will power to haul one’s backpack up a long sloping valley, and even more to climb up steep switchbacks. My grief hobbled my will power and heightened everything about the day that wasn’t perfect.
I knew what was happening, but couldn’t help my emotions. Sophia encouraged me as I stopped to take short rests. She kept reminding me to drink water.
I knew I was running behind the group, so I neglected to drink water and eat snacks. I was in a loop that was making me slower and causing me to struggle more than I had to.
After catching up to the group, I let them know how I was feeling.
Their support cannot be described. They asked about my calories and water intake, insisting that I eat and get some water. I was likely calorie-deficient and dehydrated. They gave me emotional support for what I was going through.
Jason, as always, was quick with kind words. And you know what? It worked.
Sitting amongst my friends, all who have had loss in their lives and understood what I might be going through, really turned my head around. I am sure the snacks and water helped, but their support really mattered.
Thunder boomed above us and we waited until a storm passed at a small creek. We didn’t want to climb to an exposed cliff at the top of Baron Falls if lightning was in the area.
I drank as much water as I could and we continued on. We still had nearly 4 miles and another 2,000’ of climbing to do. I was feeling way better, my head was in a better space, but I was still tired.
The rest of the group climbed up and out of sight. I saw Sophia’s yellow back disappear atop the waterfall, far above me.
Almost to the top of Baron Creek Falls, with Baron Spire looming above
I heard and then saw a couple of Cooper’s Hawks flying from tree to tree. I stopped and enjoyed their calls. I made my way to the top of Baron Falls, and turned around to see an outstanding view of the valley below.
Looking down the Baron Creek drainage, with Granjean Peak in the distance
The trail felt like it was going to level off at the top of Baron Falls, and it did, to a degree, but the last 1.5 Miles to Middle Baron Lake felt longer than it was.
Meadow along Baron Creek with Quartzite Peak above
When I arrived, everyone was just getting situated. I wasn’t as far behind as my mind led me to believe.
After a few moments resting on a log, Sophia and I got our tent up and had dinner with the group. Everyone was tired, so we called it a day.
Day 3 - 08/05/2025 - Middle Baron Lake to Middle Cramer Lake - 9.6 Miles - ~2,000’ of gain
We woke up, feeling pretty rested. The days were getting progressively easier, but long days tend to make the following days more challenging.
Again, the lakes were like mirrors in the morning. I finally got to see Middle Baron Lake, and it was stunning. I was too tired the night before.
Baron Lake reflection in the morning (Click to enlarge)
Our breakfasts are great. I find myself enjoying the company that I didn’t want to leave. But these types of trips require moving every day, for that is the price of continually changing beauty.
We were all in a better mood, since today was slated to be way easier than the previous two days. It still had some decent gain, but all of the numbers were lower.
Morning along Baron Lake
Enjoying the morning light on Upper Baron Lake
Both Middle and Upper Baron Lakes were glassy reflections of the morning light on the mountains as we started the switchbacks to the Baron Divide. Before we knew it, we were at the top and enjoying a short break.
Enjoying a break at the top of Baron Divide
We dropped down and passed some scenic lakes. Jeff, Ben, and I started chatting and the miles flew by.
Jeff enjoying the grassy unnamed lakes below the Baron Divide
Dreamer asked us, did you see a trail junction? I then remember that I did see a side trail, but knew we should stay on the main trail. Dreamer had intended to get to Alpine Lake for a swim, but we had all passed it without knowing it.
We dropped and dropped, stopping on a hillside to get some water. We agreed to stop at Redfish Lake Creek. When we approached, it was a wide river with no bridge or fallen trees. Dreamer scouted upstream and found many tents in the trees. It looks like a popular single-night backpacking spot from the Redfish Lake trailhead.
It was either we cross with our shoes on or change into water shoes. Since we were going to take a break, we changed into water shoes and took our time crossing, the icy water on our feet a welcome relief.
Enjoying a much-deserved foot soak at Redfish Lake Creek
After depositing our packs across the creek and filtering water, Sophia and I walked back to the creek and soaked our feet while we relaxed. The rushing of the cold water over our feet was a treat and a welcome sound.
After this welcome and lengthy break, we got our packs on for another climb. I was slow and steady. Sophia stayed back with me to make sure I didn’t hike alone.
Climbing again on the Mount Cramer Trail
We reached the lake at around 2PM, 5 hours earlier than our previous day. Sophia and I were exceptionally hungry, so we ate the rest of our salami and most of our crackers. Everything tastes good when you’re hungry and this was no different.
We had gone over 30 miles with nearly 9,000’ of gain in the first three days. I felt better than the day before, but was still pretty tired.
Middle Cramer Lake Falls
Some of us took a refreshing dip in the lake to rinse ourselves and our clothes. I changed into dry briefs and arranged my wet clothes on the shoreline bushes. Although there were some bugs, a light breeze kept them mostly away. The sun felt wonderful on my skin that had recently been in frigid water.
Sophia napping at Middle Cramer Lake
Sophia took a nap on the edge of the lake. She has a propensity for being able to relax in the wild. She has slept on boulders in the desert and slabs in the forest. And now she had a fairly long nap on the grassy banks of Middle Cramer Lake. Perhaps it was the white noise from the waterfall at the southeastern end of the lake, or maybe the mileage, or just the warm sun after soaking in the lake, but she was out for a while.
Dreamer went off on one of his Side Quests, as I call them. He went off-trial to the basin above our lake, finding beauty, solitude, and several swimming opportunities.
The after was wonderful and my clothes dried out. We had a nice meal on a large granite slab overlooking the lake. Dinner time is always a great time for sharing stories from the day and our lives. Jeff’s toe was still bothering him, turning a dark purple. But the pain only came when he walked a certain way. It was fairly dull when resting.
We slept well
Sunset at Middle Cramer Lake
Day 4 - 08/06/2025 - Middle Cramer Lake to Ardeth Lake - ~10.3 Miles - ~2,000’ of gain
This day was a lovely re-introduction to the magic of Jeff Hester. I woke up, still a little tired, and still grappling with grief.
Morning at Middle Cramer Lake
I stayed back with Jeff as he eased into hiking, careful of his toe, which he had taped to an adjacent toe. But soon our pace quickened and we were in sync and climbing. We passed the large Upper Cramer lake.
Crystal Clear Upper Cramer Lake
Jeff and I started chatting about all sorts of things as we passed mirror-like tarns and the trees fell below us. We entered a gorgeous alpine cirque with stunning orange and white granite and occasional ancient whitebark pines.
“She’s seen some things,” we all said while passing the gnarled tree.
Ancient Whitebark Pine
Before I knew it, Jeff and I were at the top of the pass, reunited with the rest of the group. We had climbed to the highest point of the day, half of the day’s total gain, in the first 2.5 miles, and I wasn’t tired.
I had been so engrossed in conversation with Jeff that the effort of the switchbacks didn’t seem challenging at all.
Looking down to Hidden Lake
We visited with other backpackers and had snacks and water. We were in good spirits, since it was another beautiful day and there was downhill ahead of us. We could see the enormous Hidden Lake (not hidden in any sense of the word) below us. We decided we would stop for lunch there and started our descent.
Dreamer swims in Hidden Lake
We passed the lovely creek that fed into the lake and hiked along it for about a half-mile before we stopped for lunch. Dreamer and Jeff swam in the lake while I soaked my feet.
It’s always great to replenish calories, but this trip made me realize that I needed more than I was bringing.
Hidden Lake is nearly a mile long
We relaxed for longer than necessary and then headed back out on the trail. My mind was expecting a gradual climb over one more pass. On paper it looked easy.
We passed Virginia Lake, Edna Lake, and really started to climb after Vernon Lake. The trail really started to get steep. It was only about half a mile, but it gained nearly 400’ in the time. I was gassed, so immediately went into low gear. Once again, Sophia stayed behind with me.
We made it to the top of a pass, which had a nice large lake at the top. We skirted the lake and started dropping down to Ardeth Lake. The trail wasn’t as much as a trail as it was a gully filled with ankle-breaking rocks. We carefully descended, rolling our ankles and sliding onto our rears. We had to climb over fallen logs.
This might sound like I was complaining, but the state of the trail for most of the hike was outstanding. Since the fire from the year before, I cannot imagine how much work had to be done to get this trail in the great shape that it was. Kudos to the trail volunteers for making our trip the best it could be.
This was the only part of the trail that felt like the trail itself was slowing us down.
View from my Ardeth Lake rock seat
We made it to a large campsite at the northwestern edge of the lake and settled in. Sophia took a nap in the tent while I settled my feet into the lake. Dreamer left on another Side Quest, swimming in numerous lakes above and returned to swim in Ardeth Lake, just before the sun went down.
We ate in a circle and went to sleep. Some campers nearby played music, had a fire, and let their dog roam around. Two of these things were against the rules and one was just a little annoying.
Day 5 - 08/07/2025 - Ardeth Lake to Smith Falls - ~11.1 Miles - ~1,200’ of gain
Once again, after breakfast, we headed back on the trail along a beautiful lake. And, once again, Jeff worked his magic. This time Sophia was with us and it’s always great to sit back and watch her have great conversations with my wise friends.
Morning at Ardeth Lake (Click to enlarge)
And, once again, before we knew it, we were at the top of Tenlake Divide. The climb seemed easy. After some visiting with some hikers from Minnesota, we began our gentle descent to the Benedict Creek drainage. Dreamer went on another side quest to see a lake we had seen on the map.
Dreamer at the top of Tenlake Divide
Tenlakes Basin from the divide (Click to enlarge)
Dreamer enjoys the view from the top of Tenlake Divide
We hiked to our meeting point and he returned, refreshed again from lake swimming. We passed some green meadows and the terrain was gently rolling. Sophia’s knee started hurting her, but she had her trekking poles and shrugged it off.
Lake Ingeborg
The meadows along Benedict Creek
We made it to Smith Falls and found a campsite just above the falls and the confluence of Benedict Creek and the South Fork of the Payette River.
We found a lovely granite slab near the confluence and I eyed a deep hole in the river. I was determined to have a dip into the water, since it had been a couple of days since my last rinse.
The Confluence
I stepped in and submerged myself into the icy water. I got used to it real quickly. It felt so wonderful, I did not want to get out. Dreamer came by, so I got out, making room for him to do the same.
Dreamer and I hung our clothes to dry and spent some time at the roaring confluence while the rest of the group relaxed in camp. We talked about family and fatherhood, two things that fill our hearts.
We went back to have dinner at the campsite, above the roaring Smith Falls. This was to be the last dinner of the backpacking portion of the trip. We would be exiting the trail the next day and getting fresh food and hot showers.
I went back to sit at the confluence. It was a wonderful sound and the granite was smooth from centuries of water. I relaxed on the large slab and nearly dozed from the sound of the river. It was a special spot that I’ll keep in my memory banks.
Jason wanted to take some golden hour shots of the waterfall, so Sophia and I sat next to him on the steep hillside overlooking the falls. We were out there for over an hour and Jason waited for the right shot. He tried different exposures and composition, and ended up with a wonderful photo.
We returned to camp to sleeping friends and then retired ourselves. There’s something about sleeping next to a rushing river or waterfall that just puts me in a deep sleep.
Smith Falls along the South Fork Payette River, next to our campsite
Day 6 - 08/08/2025 - Smith Falls to Grandjean Trailhead - ~14.8 Miles - ~413’ of gain
On paper, today looked to be long, but gentle. We were to follow the trail out of the valley as it slowly descended back to the trailhead. But nearly 15 miles is nearly 15 miles, especially on tired feet and hauling a pack on your back.
We woke up at 5 and were on the trail by 6. We wanted to be done with the trail and get some hot lunch. Sophia and I were first to be ready, so we headed out. We knew they would catch up at some point.
We hiked through a headlamp tunnel for the first half hour, until the sky slowly illuminated our path. Minutes into our hike, we came across the South Fork of the Payette River. We scouted a bit back and forth. Some opted to remove their shoes, but Sophia and just hiked through the shallow water.
We were quiet, as a tent was just on the other side and the inhabitants were clearly still asleep. Sophia and I got into the rhythm and enjoyed the varied terrain. Different kinds of pines surrounded the trail and we went in and out of flowering meadows as the day grew lighter.
The South Fork Payette River Trail
There were more climbs on this downhill day than I was anticipating, but, to be fair, there always is. The valley opened up to the lovely Elk Lake, with a single tent next to it.
Then it narrowed into a granitic gorge with rushing whitewater and cascades. The beauty of what we were passing through was not lost on us. We dropped and dropped, aiming to be nearly 3,000’ by the end of the day.
The South Fork Payette River
After dropping past a spectacular gorge, the valley opened up to a broad meadow, with the river meandering through it. We re-entered the burn area and the trail got ashy again. It was still a pleasantly cool morning, but we took off a layer.
We were all hiking so silently, I hadn’t realized that Jeff and Ben had caught up to us during our last break. We stepped aside for a small pack train, fitted with coolers and rifles. The trail was a single track that rose and fell. On my map, it read “Jeep Trail,” but there was no sign that this was ever a jeep trail, unless it had been rerouted at some point.
The day got hot and our feet got tired, as we kept our steady pace at the upper end of our abilities. Food and rest was calling. We dropped into side drainage for Goat Creek and gladly walked across the icy water, soothing our tired feet.
We continued until we hit our last big landmark before the end: Baron Creek. A trail led to the right, where two miles uphill we had our lunch on day two. I stood in the creek, enjoying the relief until Sophia said, “Dad, c’mon, let’s go!”
“When are we going to be able to soak in a creek like this again?” Reluctantly, we moved on, all of us starting to chat a little more as we got near the finish line.
The final creek crossing at Baron Creek
We arrived at the trailhead, and Dreamer and Jason were already on a picnic bench and changed. We quickly changed our clothes with fresher clothes from the car and headed on down the road to the Sawtooth Lodge, where we had wonderful sandwiches and cold drinks.
We made it back to the cabin and took turns taking showers. Dreamer and I hung out on the porch, airing out our things and repacking them into the large suitcases for our flights. We wanted to be done with “work” so we could relax for the remainder of the day.
The day was peaceful and the porch shaded us from the warm sun and allowed the mountain breezes to soothe us.
We had a great dinner at the Sawtooth Lodge and hung out in the living room of the cabin, talking later than we should have.
The next day, the rest of the group took off for a long trip back to Bend, and Sophia and I headed back to Boise, where we’d have some fruit bowls and see a movie before our late flight. It was a great way to end the trip.
Fresh Fruit Reward
I’ve said this many times, but it’s not just the challenge, the beauty, or the adventure, it’s who you share it with. I’ve gone on so many adventures with this group, it’s like settling into a comfortable chair when we get together. We all live in different parts of the west, so we only get to see each from time to time. It has been since our Teton Crest Trail in 2021 that I had backpacked with Jeff. It was great to catch up with him. But at the most, I see these friends two to three times a year, mostly just once. It was also great to have Sophia have an extended time with them.
We all support each other. There’s not an unkind word. There is grace all around.
We are already planning for next summer.
Grand Sawtooth Loop Map (Click to enlarge)
