France Backpacking 2024 - A night at Refuge de Nice in the French Maritime Alps
June 2024
At the end of a two-week trip, Sophia and I were headed into the French Maritime Alps. We had traveled by sea from San Tropez to Monte-Carlo. First world problems, but we were exhausted from traveling to many cities, with excursions to wineries, playing with jet skis, and so much wonderful food.
The Plan
Our plan was to hike from refuge to refuge in the Parque Nacional de Mercantour, for three nights in huts and four days of hiking, since wild camping in the area is not allowed. We were aiming for the Refuge de Nice on night one, Refuge de Valmasque on night two, and down through the Vallée des Merveilles (Valley of Marvels) to Refuge des Merveilles before making it back to the original valley of La Gordolasque and snagging a ride home.
Having plans is fun.
06/28/2024
We were excited to see the mountains, but had been gone from home for over two weeks, so we were dragging our feet a little bit.
Leaving our fancy clothes at a hotel, we left from Nice as a driver took us from freeways to highways to roads to unpaved roads all the way to our trailhead at Pont du Countet.
We got out of the car with our backpacks and smelled the lush countryside, serenaded by the rushing of La Gordolasque, the river flowing down the center of the dramatic valley. We headed up the trail, conscious of starting at 5,600’ of elevation. We’d been at sea level for two weeks and aimed to be gaining almost 2,000’ this day.
We were excited, as we usually are, to enter the wilderness. This was our first time backpacking in Europe and we were eager to experience it.
At the trailhead in the French Maritime Alps
Similar to our time in Greenland and Chile, the trail markers were often painted on rocks along the trail. The trail started fairly flat along the river. The hillsides were covered in green brush and there were cascades on either side. Only a few steps from the trailhead and we were buoyed by the beauty of the area.
Looking down-valley over the glacial-blue La Gordolasque River
The water in the river was a glacial blue and provided an audio backdrop to our day. We got started at about 3PM and the signpost read that it was 2H30 to Refuge de Nice. Challenge accepted.
The trail sign to Refuge de Nice, our destination for the night
We chatted about things, as we usually do, as we made our way up the gorgeous valley. It usually takes me a mile or so to truly warm up and this was no different. I was feeling tired, but not too bad.
Getting started along the trail
Within the first 10 minutes, we saw our first Alpine Ibex, grazing near the river. We crossed a small bridge and headed upward along the valley wall.
La Gordolasque keeping us company for most of the trek
We kept on smiling at how beautiful it was. The trail got steeper for a bit and I really felt it. I pushed myself at what I felt was Sophia’s pace, but I heard the words I never thought I’d hear again:
“Dad, could you slow down?”
Likely, I won’t ever hear them again, but I was happy to oblige.
The way up is up
Looking back down the valley where we came from
We were ready for a break. We found a large flat boulder to sit on and enjoyed the view of the valley we had just ascended. We broke out the snacks and water and enjoyed our time on the edge.
The trail climbs the steep walls of the valley
Recharged, we continued our climb. We still had another 1,000’ to gain the pass. The view became more spectacular as we ascended.
Waterfalls and cascades were everywhere
Getting a little closer to the top of the pass
The valley continues and La Gordolasque can be heard under the rocks
Once we got to the next tier of the valley, we saw many more ibexes as the way became increasingly rocky. The way leveled out somewhat for a bit, weaving between grass, snow, and boulders. We could see the dam for Lac de la Fous above us.
One of many Alpine Ibexes that kept us company
Getting closer to Refuge de Nice
Hiking along La Gordolasque
Our view behind us
Once we reached the dam, we could see the refuge, on a perch above the lake. We were close. But we were already feeling exhausted. We made our way along the lake, enjoying the proximity to a large herd of ibexes and made our way up the final steps to the hut.
Refuge de Nice perched above Lac de la Fous
Almost to Refuge de Nice
Ibex, river, waterfall
Final steps to Refuge de Nice
It was spectacularly situated. We dropped off our backs and poles in the little courtyard outside and went to check in. We had paid for breakfast and dinner. I love how the French pronounce my French last name and, through broken English and French, we checked into our room, which we shared with a French couple from a town near Antibes. We got settled and changed and headed outside to relax into the view above the lake. I messaged my wife that we made it.
The entry to Refuge de Nice
The view from our room at Refuge de Nice
Contacting my wife back in Nice on the balcony outside our room
There were some mosquitoes, but it wasn’t too bad. Since we had arrived so late in the afternoon, we did not have to wait long until it was dinner time.
We shared our table with the couple that we shared our room with. We had a lively discussion talking about cinema, music, and food. Dinner was a hearty beef stew with pasta and bread. It was better than we had hoped. Similar to our time in the hut in Japan, we were the only native English speakers around.
After dinner, Sophia and I strolled around the grounds, enjoying the late dusk. It was 9:30PM and it was still light. I was confused by this until I realized that Nice was as far north as Portland, Oregon, even though our time along the mediterranean was very warm.
The stunning view from our balcony at 9:30PM
We retired for the night, climbing up the side of the bunks and slipping into our sleeping bag liners, exhausted. I did my best to stop from snoring. I failed.
06/29/2024
We woke up early, as did the rest of the hut, and we made it down for breakfast. We gathered our stuff and slowly made our way out of the hut.
Climbing from Refuge de Nice
We stalled. We were tired. It reminded us of our third day in Greenland, where we couldn’t shake off our exhaustion. Our plan was to climb to one of the high lakes, Lac Nire, along our route and see how we were feeling. Sometimes we just need to warm up.
The trail immediately began climbing up the green hillside above the hut, giving us a nice view of the hut above the lake with the mountains framing it all.
Climbing up from the refuge
An ibex watches us
We are dressed in our rain gear as we encounter a lot of water and snow
We took our time, our fatigue ready to show its face whenever we pushed too hard upward. We ascended over a rise and descended down to a lovely valley with a rushing river at the bottom. We crossed the river on a wooden bridge and headed up the other side of the valley, stopping to admire the ibexes, which seemed to be everywhere.
Dropping down to cross the creek
Another ibex says hello
Crossing the creek in a little pretty valley
Cascades rushed down from every mountain and the trail crossed below a waterfall. We carefully crossed the white water on slick stones, but we are now experts.
Crossing under the waterfall
We climbed through the rocks some more, following the trail through a small cliff band and emerged on a flat section and could see the mostly frozen La Nire.
Frozen Lac Nire with snow dusted from red African sand
It had been less than a mile and we had climbed 550’ and we were fairly tired. We approached the lake and found a large boulder with room enough for both of us underneath it. We decided to take a break.
It started raining. We were comfortable and out of the wind and rain. We snacked, drank water, enjoyed each other’s company as the rain hissed on the rocks and grass around us. Circles of water appeared on the lake. A black bird hopped from one floating ice sheet to another, hunting for bugs in the peach-colored ice. We learned earlier in our trip that sandstorms in Africa bring red sand to the Côte d'Azur.
Our cozy rock shelter at Lac Nire
I was surprised that the sand made it all the way up here, but it was clear that this snow and ice was tinted with African sand, even though we were nearly at 8,000’ of elevation and over 30 miles from the Mediterranean Sea, and almost 500 miles from the coast of Tunisia.
We decided to wait out the rain, as we only had a little over 5 miles for the day until the next hut and only 1,200 more feet of gain.
Sophia fell asleep while I ventured out into the rain to look around.
Looking at my map, I realized I could see our climb ahead. We were heading toward a pass to the east called Baisse du Basto. I pivoted with my GPS and could see it clearly in the distance.
Baisse du Basto is the low spot on the ridge above
I looked down at Sophia’s sleeping form. As I have many times in the past, I had to make a call.
There were a lot of factors that came into play:
The pass ahead had a lot of snow and ice underneath it
The way to the pass was about 1 mile with 1,200’ of gain; it was very steep
It had been raining for over 2 hours wasn’t showing any sign of stopping
We were both tired and Sophia was practically asleep on her feet
Our fatigue combined with a potentially dangerous route was bad news
We discussed it and decided to descend all the way back to the trailhead and stay at a hotel that I had been communicating with, the Relais des Merveilles, in the valley below.
We had waited out the rain for about 3 hours. It was already after 1PM when we started our way back down the mountain.
Saying goodbye to our resting spot
We again crossed the cascades and descended back to the refuge. The rain continued on us as we dropped down the steps to the lakeside.
Re-crossing the creek below the waterfall
It was one of those trips where, even though we had been on the trail for less than 24 hours, we felt like we had already experienced so much.
Looking back on our way down below Refuge de Nice
We found much joy in descending in the rain. We passed many people on their way to the refuge for a day hike. Many of them looked very tired and asked us in French how far it was. We told them it was still a climb ahead.
Headed back down the valley
We decided to descend the eastern side of La Gordolasque, so we could see a different side of the valley. It was a nice change as we navigated the granite steps as marmots scampered away from us. Of course, we pronounced them as mar-mows.
The marmot on watch
We chatted and eventually the rain stopped, about 5 hours after it started. The trail made way to an old out-of-use road. We saw more ibexes and enjoyed them with the day hikers.
A very tall waterfall along La Gordolasque
We heard a cuckoo in the trees. An actual cuckoo. It sounded exactly like the cuckoo clock I grew up with. I was stunned. I sat and listened to it for a while. I wasn’t sure when I’d ever be able to listen to a cuckoo in the wild again.
We made it back to the trailhead and took a break on a rock near the restrooms. Ready for the next section of our adventure, we headed down the road, completely smitten by the valley around us.
Road walks are rarely fun, but this one presented us with trees and plants that were unusual to us, as well as the lush green valley with the glacial blue river at its core. Charming cabins perched on under trees here and there.
We chatted as we strolled along the road. We agree we were tired and this was all a good idea. There was no cell signal this deep into the valley so we continued down along the road, stepping aside as every car passed. I checked my map and knew the hotel was coming up in a mile or so.
We saw signs for a celebration of the mountain donkey. We wondered what that was about. We saw some donkeys in a field and we came upon the Relais des Merveilles. There were cars and people everywhere.
We dropped our things and we made our way past the festivities and into the lobby. I asked if there were any rooms available, and the owner shook his head, “Sorry, the hotel is completely sold out for a private event.”
I asked him if there were any other hotels nearby. He said there was one just a few hundred meters down the road. I thanked him and we went outside and put our backpacks back on and headed down the road.
I scanned my map and could not see any signs of a hotel that was close to this one. I remember checking when I was planning the trip.
We descended on the road, looking at every cabin and structure that may be a hotel. We saw none. I finally got a bit of a connection and could see a hotel about 1.5 miles again. We aimed for that one.
At this point, the novelty of the road walk wore a little thin. Progress seemed very slow, even though the distance on paper seemed manageable. By the time we headed up a side road on a hill to the Hôtel du Grand Capelet, we were ready to be done.
Hôtel du Grand Capelet
We left our backpacks outside and entered the ground floor of the hotel.
A dozen people were on the floor practicing yoga with an instructor. A worker from the hotel seemed very surprised to see us, an American father and daughter in trekking attire. After initially stating that the hotel was closed to a private event, they checked with the owner who confirmed that we could have a room. We asked if they had dinner and they checked on that, too, and said yes, but it was vegetarian. We were fine with it. We were tired and everything sounded good.
We waited on the deck which had a spectacular view of the valley below and enjoyed the cool mountain air. We tried to stay away from the yoga group, giving them their privacy.
The view from the balcony of Hôtel du Grand Capelet
Our room was ready and we got settled in, enjoying the shower and relaxed in the beds. I received a phone call from the Refuge de Valmasque, asking if we were going to make it. I was astounded. The refuges seemed so rustic, I didn’t imagine they had a phone. I let them know we had to change our itinerary and apologized for not giving them notice.
I researched to see if there was any way to make it to Refuge de Merveilles from another trailhead, so we could at least see that part of the valley, but the mileage just did not make any sense. I emailed Refuge de Merveilles and let them know we were not going to come.
We decided to spend our second to last evening tomorrow at Antibes, a town we hadn’t visited. I contacted the driving company asking if they could pick us up a day early.
Dinner was delicious and we slept wonderfully.
The next morning, We had a hearty breakfast and waited at the bottom of the road for our driver. The sunny morning was wonderful and flowers were blooming all around us.
The driver came a little late, but we weren’t in a hurry to leave this beautiful valley. We both agreed that any backpacking trips should come at the beginning of a longer trip, rather than the end.
As we settled into the coastal town of Antibes, we both agreed that the French Alps were amazing and we would come back to explore in a heartbeat.
Le Nomade, over the marina in Antibes, by the artist Jaume Plensa
