Long Lake Backpacking 2023 - A trip with my daughter and nieces
Long Lake (Bishop Pass)
Mileage: 4 (Round-trip)
Dates Hiked: 06/26/2019-06/30/2019, 07/14/2023-07/16/2023 (This trip)
Agency: Inyo National Forest
Trailhead: Bishop Pass Trailhead out of South Lake
For those interested, here is a list of my gear that I have found works well for me. This is, of course, an affiliate link and your enjoyment of these may vary:
Introduction
We were hanging out at a family gathering in May. It was my daughter, Sophia, and my two closest nieces, XN and TN. Over the past few years, I noticed a renewed interest in the outdoors by XN. We had gone on a backpacking trip in 2012 to Mount Pinos. At the end of that one, she declared that she never wanted to go backpacking again.
I had also been on a backpacking trip to Whale Peak with TN (XN’s sister) and Sophia. We had also gone to Cougar Canyon together in 2022.
I suggested we try to make it to the Sierra Nevada this time. Given that we’d be driving up on a Friday and that there was a crazy amount of snowpack this year (2023), I wanted something that wasn’t too far, too challenging, or too high to be buried in snow.
Sophia and I had gone backpacking to Long Lake in 2019 with some snow and the trail was fine except for one steep section. The snowfields above were no problem.
They were game, we set a date, and I got the permits.
Day 1: San Diego to Long Lake - 2.25 Miles - 1,000’ Gain
We got up early. I was still struggling a little bit with waking up early, since I had gotten home from our Japan trip just 11 days prior. But we left from San Diego at 6AM, after picking up my nieces. I was a little sleepy and was hoping they would help me stay awake.
However, once we were on the road, they all fell asleep. I played some music as I battled sleepiness. We stopped at Kramer Junction, where we got some snacks and drinks. That helped, but before long, they were asleep again. That was OK, since with the snacks and soda, I was awake just fine.
We made it to Bishop and had lunch and headed up onto South Lake Road on the 168. It was a road I had been on at least 5 times before, such as on my own solo trip where I backpacked to Dusy Basin and also spent a night on Long Lake on the way back.
At the South Lake Trailhead
We got to the trailhead at around 2PM and were immediately swarmed by mosquitoes. I was surprised, since I thought the wind and snow would have delayed their emergence. We quickly headed up the trail, where our movement kept them at bay.
I was excited since I loved this area. Like I said, I had been on this trail many times. We had a stretch goal of making it to one of the upper lakes, such as Saddlerock Lake or the Chocolate Lakes, for the second night, but we’d play it by ear with the snow.
We chatted about everything, laughing and enjoying the surrounding area. South Lake was the fullest I had ever seen. We took breaks in the trees, saying hello to many day hikers.
Making our way up the Bishop Pass Trail along South Lake
After enjoying our time on the trail and wound through the forest, we were at the steep snow wall where Sophia and I had been careful in 2019.
We had to wait for a big group with dogs to descend and we headed up with no big concerns. I did hand one of my trekking poles to TN so she could better keep her footing.
For the rest of the way, there was more snow in most of the places than we had in 2019, so we crossed to the left of the drainage for a bit before we reached the flats on the northern end of the lake where it gets marshy.
Glancing up the Bishop Creek drainage, we could see snow as far as the eye could see, with cornices on the hill leading to the higher lakes. We decided we’d spend two nights at Long Lake.
Arriving at the northern end of Long Lake with Chocolate Peak and Picture Puzzle above
We started the cross-country hike up and over the hills to the north of the lake, saying hello to a group with a dog camping high on the hill. We dropped toward the lake, scanning for dry flat spots large enough for two tents.
We found a great spot with a view of the lake and easy access to the South Fork Bishop Creek for running water.
The rushing South Fork of Bishop Creek near Long Lake, the source of our water
XN resting at Long Lake
It was beautiful. I was happy I chose this lake.
We got our tents set up and settled in for some dinner. The mosquitos were here, too, but we had headnets and the breeze kept them at bay for the most part. We all brought chairs and sat around telling stories and laughing. It was great to see the cousins together.
Our campsite above Long Lake
Mostly frozen Long Lake
Lovely Long Lake
Long Lake Panoramic (Click to Enlarge)
We had gotten an early morning start and the temperature plummeted, so we turned in pretty early.
I needed a bio break at about 11PM, so I got up. While I was up, I noticed the stars were amazing, so I strolled around a bit away from the tents and took some photos and enjoyed the glow from the stars. I got chilly and headed back into the tent for a warm night of sleep.
The stars and Milky Way reflecting in Long Lake
Day 2: Zero Day - Explore and a swim
We got up once the sun hit our tent. We didn’t have anywhere far to go, so we lounged for a while before emerging. We sat around the campsite for a long time, having breakfast and snacking. We moved our chairs to the shade when the sun got too warm.
Morning at Frozen Long Lake
I wanted to give the cousins some time together, so I wandered around the hill, and realized that the other group must have left earlier in the morning.
I appreciated the reddish rock outcrops and the flowers blooming. I could see some other empty campsites of various sizes on the hill. The cornices to the south were pretty intense, but we could see some people with winter gear tackling the route to Bishop Pass.
Cozy campsite at Long Lake
The ice on the lake slowly made its way to us, breaking up a little before heading down in small chunks down South Fork Bishop Pass Creek.
We were fine just where we were. At around 2PM, I was ready to go into the lake. It was only going to get colder as the day progressed, so the time was now.
They convinced themselves to go in, too and we all took quick dips, amazed at how quickly our feet started aching in the frigid water. We all took turns taking dips before the icy water would force us to thaw out in the sun.
Riding the ice on Long Lake
I dared XN to climb onto the floating ice and she did it. We all then had to join her. I was unsure if it could also handle my weight, but it did just fine.
I never thought I’d be standing on floating ice on an 11,000’ Sierra lake. It was a blast as we had to climb up and then back down into the water.
Afterward, we all sat on a log overlooking the lake and dried off in the warm sun as our feet tingled and came back to life.
We all put on dry clothes and wandered off to take naps in various spots on the hill overlooking the lake.
Once again it was dinner time and we all shared our food and stories. We saw that the floating ice on which we had stood had already melted and floated downstream. More chunks floated toward us from the large ice mass on the southern side of the lake, but we knew that in a few days there would be no more ice on the lake.
Our magic time on the ice was a brief fortunate moment in time.
My nieces and daughter enjoying the Sierra Nevada
It was wonderful and I had a blast spending time with my nieces. XN had just graduated from college and I was so proud of her. I had taken care of her on Mondays every week when she was a baby. She was my first experience taking care of a baby and then a toddler. She was fun as a child and was still fun as a young woman.
This time was extremely special.
Long Lake from our campsite (Click to Enlarge)
In the dimming light, I wandered up the hill again to give them some time together without their goofy dad and uncle.
Long Lake dusk
This evening, they decided to stay up with me to watch the stars. It was another clear evening with the stars sparkling off the icy lake. We were bundled in layers and sleeping bags.
The Milky Way
At around 10PM, it was time to get into the tent and get warm.
Day 3: Long Lake to San Diego - 2.25 Miles - 1,000’ of loss
Not as much ice left on Long Lake
I woke up early the next morning to take a quiet stroll around the lake. The lake’s surface was like glass, reflecting the peaks around it. It is so incredible that this lake is so easy to get to. The beauty versus effort payoff for this place was hard to believe.
We had another leisurely breakfast and by 9:30AM, we were ready to head down the mountain. We made our way over the hill and back to the Bishop Pass Trail, this time staying on the main trail, sliding on snow on the way down. We were back down to the car in an hour or so.
Descending the snow fields on the Bishop Pass Trail
The crux of snow at the same spot as 2019
We headed to the Alabama Hills Cafe and had a hearty breakfast.
We heard a large group in the back of the restaurant singing Happy Birthday to someone.
Funny Story
That person who was receiving birthday wishes was none other than the extremely charming and capable Shawnté Salabert, who Sophia and I met during her book tour for her great PCT resource Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail: Southern California: Section Hiking from Campo to Tuolumne Meadows. We’ve been friends online for years. She posted a photo on her Instagram timeline and I could see my head and my nieces behind her. Small world!
If I had just turned around to see who it was, I could have said hello. Next time, I’ll be more vigilant.
Amazing coincidence - Behind to the right is XN, TN, and my head
Summary
It was great to spend time outdoors with my nieces and great to see them spend time with each other. Sophia treasures her relationship with her cousins. This part of the Eastern Sierra is a magical place and it was special to share it with them.
We are already planning more trips in the future.
